Discover the magic of Varanasi through the famous Ganga Aarti ceremony.

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The Aarti ceremony, emblematic of Varanasi, is one of the most spectacular and significant spiritual ceremonies in India.

For those who come to Varanasi, or Kashi, or Banaras as the Indians still call it, there is a much-anticipated moment at the end of the day: Ganga Aarti.

They gather every day at sunset in the city dedicated to the god Shiva. They are pilgrims, sadhus, believers or not, tourists, locals, or simply curious. They come from all geographical, cultural, or religious backgrounds and if the evening ceremony focuses on Dashashwamedh Ghat, we attended it from Assi Ghat. Ready for this journey to another world… we are taking you to the Ganga Aarti ceremony in Varanasi, on the banks of the Ganges !

The gaths of Varanasi, on the banks of the Ganges River

The day began at dawn, on the ghats or on a boat from the river, to observe the Hindu rituals and the fervor of the millions of pilgrims who came to perform their ablutions. One must not miss wandering along the ghats where flower merchants, sadhus, sugarcane stick sellers, and other palmists are at work. Then a little tour through the alleys of old Varanasi where it is difficult to make your way before heading to Sarnath to visit a major site of Buddhism.

Just before the Aarti, we loved watching a craftsman at work on his old Jacquard loom, busy making a sari for which the holy city is equally renowned. We are however saddened to learn that the future of his craftsmanship hangs by a thread due to the lack of successors among the new generations.

At the time of ablutions along the Ganges

In the morning, many sadhus sit on the steps leading down to the sacred river

The boat ride on the Ganges offers a beautiful view of the ghats of Varanasi

Detail of weaving a sari on a Jacquard loom

Finally, the end of the day arrives. Before sunset, we will take our place on the steps of Assi Ghat where the platforms are being set up and where the priests will soon officiate. For about seven kilometers that can be walked along the river, the entire bank gradually lights up. The crowd, slowly but surely, takes their place all around the sacred promontories, seeking the best spot to fully enjoy it. And night falls as the priests make their entrance.

It is from this moment and for about forty five minutes that we will witness one of the most revered and captivating rituals that India has to offer, with the Ganges as the backdrop.

The ceremony, conducted by young priests dressed in matching traditional attire, is accompanied by Vedic mantras. The sound of bells and religious chants accompany the synchronized movement of the flames burning on the large brass oil lamps. And the echo of the conches fades into the white wisps released by the incense. To all this are added the applause of the crowd, who sing the sacred songs in unison while immortalizing the moment on their mobile phones. Tradition and modernity are one and the same.

And the ceremony cannot end without the offering to the sacred river. Everyone carries out the task by approaching the calm waters on which night has fallen, to place the "deeya" they bought for a few rupees before the ceremony. The small oil lamp, made from a cotton wick soaked in ghee or vegetable oil and placed on a sal leaf with flowers, thus joins the thousands of other small lights that, carried by the wind, set off each evening along the water.  

Everyone will then return to the course of their lives, at peace and above all delighted to have taken part in this unique moment like no other. Tomorrow, another motley crowd will attend the ceremony to once again celebrate the goddess Ganga, the backbone of Kashi, the spiritual heart of India.